The Downs Link Ride
By: Daniel Beckham and Mike Griffiths
Sunday morning with the South Downs in the distance
The Downs Link is a cycle route which cuts across the Surrey Hills and follows the line of a disused railway from Guildford to Shoreham-by-Sea. Although dismantled in the 1960’s the path follows the original cuttings and embankments of the railway and many of the original stations can still be admired as you travel along a largely traffic free route.
The day started with me carrying my bike and luggage separately over the footbridge at Pluckley station so I could catch the 08:38 and meet up with Mike at Tonbridge who was coming in from Maidstone. It didn’t register with me the train sat on the platform was not moving while I busied myself hauling the luggage until I stood on the platform and the driver explained he had hit a tree at 85mph and the train wasn’t going anywhere. The technicians were on site with stripy yellow and black tape carrying out make shift repairs to the windscreen and side windows. Mike was already on his way to Tonbridge and there was little else I could do other than lug my bike and luggage back over the bridge and hope a solution would present itself. After an anxious half hour wait, looking at the Trainline app and online notifications, the stricken train slowly pulled out of the station and sure enough, as the driver had suggested to me, a train appeared travelling in what would normally be the wrong direction and pulled into the station for me to board. With plenty of time built in with our transfer at Tonbridge I would just make it in time for us both to board our connecting train to Guildford. Our weekend adventure had started.
The remainder of the journey was thankfully uneventful and we arrived in Guildford at our planned time of 11:13. After a short time of ‘orientation’ (riding the wrong way / going round in circles whilst staring at the phone GPS) we found the start of route 223 which runs alongside the River Wey and the abandoned Arun Canal. The canal operated from 1816 to 1871 linking Guildford and the South Coast before the railways made its use redundant however you can still make it out where parts of the canal have been cleared by volunteers.
The path was mainly compacted gravel or concrete with the odd muddy sections but nothing a road bike with normal ‘touring’ type tyres couldn’t handle. It’s always a pleasure to ride on a path without the fear of being knocked off by a passing car, it allows you to take your time, look around and take in the passing scenery. There is lots to see and many of the old railways’ infrastructure is still visible. The first station you pass through is Bramley, just 3.5 miles into the ride with the concrete platform and some old signs inside the platform waiting area still in situ. Even the original level crossing gates are still in place. From Bramley the path takes you out into the country side along a mainly flat route loosely following the river passing under a couple of roads before reaching Cranleigh and Baynards abandoned stations.
Wild camping in a deserted picnic area.
Baynards Railway station has now been converted into a stunning home with the original platform, waiting rooms and a restored carriage parked in the garden. Judging by all the signs dotted around the fence they must get a bit fed up of the passers by stopping and taking pictures and even feeling the need to enter the property and have a look around. We didn’t, and after just a short stop to admire the home we pushed on, it was nearly lunch time.
We stopped after 12 miles, just north of the old Rudgwick Brick Works where we found a suitable bench in some woodland and ate tour packed lunch. From Rudgwick the path is a long straight stretch that is well maintained and progress became slightly easier. The Downs Link has a new section added at Christ’s Hospital School and although different from our digital Ordnance Survey map it was well signposted and took you past the old Christ’s Hospital station and private school grounds before re-joining the original route towards Southwater. Here we were expecting a diversion as the path was closed. As it turned out we continued along the path with just the last few hundred yards being closed. Coming back down the main road to re-join the route there was a convenient CO-OP. Here we bought our provisions for dinner. While coming out of the shop clutching my pasta, sauce, fruit and plenty of water, Mike was chatting to two other cyclists who had also stopped for supplies. They too were riding the Downs Link but were intending stopping at Truleigh Hill Youth Hostel on the South Downs. They had dumped their kids with their grandparents for the weekend and this was their way of escaping for a couple of days.
Leaving Southwater, passing under the A24 dual carriageway we started to feel the first spots of rain. Checking the weather app it showed light rain for a couple of hours. With Gore-Tex coat and trousers on we continued on but so did the rain. Half an hour later I was questioning my judgement for not putting on my overshoes and why they were still in the top pocket of my pannier. Sealskinz or not, I could feel the cold water accumulating in my shoes. It could be worse I suppose. I looked across to Mike who had elected not to bother with his water proof trousers and rely on a pair of waterproof shorts. Anyhow it was only a couple of miles and we would be arriving at West Grinstead station and from what I had been able to see on Google maps would provide a potential camping ground.
Arriving at the old station we parked the bikes and had a look at the abandoned carriage and searched for a suitable place to pitch but everywhere was too exposed and the passing dog walking traffic too regular for our liking. Leaving the sensible people sheltering under the trees in now a torrential down poor we continued stopping at every gate and foot path to explore for a potential nights camp. The next 5 miles took the best part of two hours as we stopped and pondered if we should stop, was it too busy?, would the cows be back in the night?, was the ground too lumpy, grass too long?, but nowhere seemed suitable or what we considered to be safe. We eyed up a pub garden in Henfield but felt we would have to buy our dinner in there and Mike had his Chicken Rogan Josh and Mexican rice to look forward to. Dropping south out of Henfield we spied some benches in a field and a sign for tea and coffee. We entered the field, the rain had stopped and the sun came out. A perfect large field with a hut that served drinks between 9-4 at the weekends. It was now past 6 in the evening and apart from a couple walking their dog we had the place to ourselves. Mike took off his helmet wandered over and enquired with the dog walkers if they knew the owner, which they did and after a short phone call we had our permission to tuck ourselves out of the way on the edge of the field. It was a perfect location to camp with great views overlooking the South Downs. Tents pitched we heated up our dinner and watched the spectacular sunset. It’s always a real pleasure putting on dry socks when camping. It’s odd because I do it every day when I get out of the shower but somehow putting them on when you are camping after having wet feet feels a special treat. To me that’s what makes camping special and traveling in this way, all the basic, simple things we generally take for granted in modern life become appreciated more.
By 9pm we were both zipped up in our sleeping bags in our respective tents and apart from a couple of trips outside during the night the morning came round quickly. I think there was a dog sniffing around the tent that first woke me but checking my watch it was nearly 7am, so time to get up anyway.
The day was bright and I took advantage of the sunshine to dry my shoes and insoles while I put on a brew and had some breakfast. Mike had a spring in his step, the new sleeping bag (Alpkit Pipedream 400) and inflatable mattress (Alpkit Cloud Base) had been a revelation and he had enjoyed one of the best nights camping in a long time. I was using the lighter Alpkit Pipedream 200 but with the night time temperatures around 8 to 9 degrees I was only just comfortable sleeping with socks and thermals on. The Pipedream 400 was a more suitable choice for these temperatures and would keep you warm to around freezing. Mike had chosen wisely.
Leaving the field as we found it with no trace of our stay we set off in light drizzle just past 9am. With the additional mileage covered the previous day we only had around 8 miles to cover. From Henfield onwards the surface of the Downs Link improves and is a smooth compacted gravel most of the way. Crossing the flatlands of Statham Manor we enjoyed open views on both sides. If I have a criticism of the route it would be that: It is quiet and peaceful but you are generally riding through cuttings or on embankments lined with trees so sometimes the views can be a little restricted but on the positive side you are less likely to be battling any wind.
Passing through a derelict railway station.
The next deserted station you pass through is Bramber and the remains of the old Norman motte-and-bailey castle.
We crossed the river Adur using the single lane cycle bridge and passed the cement works north of Shoreham, following the path with the river to our right and the A283 on our left. Coming to Shoreham-by-Sea we stopped after the junction with the A283 and A27 to view the Old Shoreham Toll Bridge. Built in 1781-2 out of wood the bridge offered safe passage over the estuary which previously meant a long detour for the traveller or a perilous river crossing. Now only open to walkers and cyclists and no toll we rode across and back again to stop and take a look at the memorial for the Shoreham air crash which both Mike and I witnessed in 2015.
With a view of the sea ticked off we headed into town for cake. A suitable café with outside seating was located and with a hot chocolate and a slice of cake in hand we sat in our waterproofs and watched the world go by. It was now dry and the sun was back out but neither of us could be bothered to change for the umpteenth time with the changing weather. Being dry only meant it was about to rain at any moment, such had been the weather that morning.
Just up the road was the station and our ride home. We purchased our tickets home via Eastbourne and Ashford International where we parted company and went our separate ways home. I was indoors by 4pm having been away for only 32 hours but it seemed much longer. It had been a weekend adventure and one I would highly recommend to anyone. The 40 miles could be covered in day with an early start, especially if you were to travel light or with perhaps an overnight stay at Shoreham to avoid the return home in the evening. Generally the entire route is well signposted however we used the GB Parks app with the route marked on the Ordinance Survey 1:50,000 Landranger map which is easy to follow and always provides your exact location and direction of travel.